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Monday, May 17, 2010

The Mighty Nile...home at last!

So it has been a while since our last post. We have had a pretty exciting last couple of weeks. Life here is becoming more routine. We have finally fitted our house out with (most of) our furniture and we should have a car by the end of the week. In typical Deb and Stu fashion, we have already played host to friends from around the world. The bed and breakfast is officially open!

Kampala lies about five kilometres from Lake Victoria, which would seem like a dream for water-minded folk like us. However, despite being taunted daily with view of the lake from our apartment, we cannot swim in the lake because of Schistosomiasis. This little parasite caused by water snails has meant no swimming for fear of getting ill.

This weekend we may have found the solution to all of our woes. About one hour from Kampala is a small town called Jinja that has tried to become an outdoor hotspot in Africa. It is host to the equally important source of the legendary Nile (although this is still academically disputed by some geographers) and the largest brewery in Uganda, the Nile Brewery (as a side note, Uganda has a depressingly high level of alcohol consumption. Some studies have put alcohol consumption per capita in Uganda as the third highest in the world) Jinja has recently had a huge zipline and bungee jump installed. However, we went to experience some of the biggest white-water
in the world. The mighty Nile has some amazing class 5 rapids that are easy to access and provide HUGE water.

We have rafted in some pretty big water before but it was nothing like this. The Nile is a great place to raft because the water is warm (around 25), there are few rocks and the scenery is amazing. A great Ugandan named Henry guided us down the river. He has been paddling this stretch of the Nile for almost ten years and seems to know the water inside and out. As we started, he asked us how we liked it "mild or wild". We opted for the wild and boy did we get it. We started off with some small class 1 and 2 water involving a lot of swimming and enjoying the lazy-river styles. It was great to just lie back and float. There were many birds and flowers along the bank to enjoy as we meandered closer to the big water. We could hear the rapids before we could see them. As we approached the first section with bigger
water, the guide remarked that we sure like to be in the water. The next
thing we knew, we were upside down in an infuriated patch of the Nile River, a ceiling of white water above us, all those tranquil birds and flowers along the banks a violently disappeared memory. We emerged with huge smiles and joy of the water we had been looking for.

And that was just Round one. During the trip our raft flipped several times. We went flying off waterfalls. We got twisted around rocks. The whole experience was like riding a bouncy castle through a tsunami. In some places, the water seemed to defy the laws of physics, with giant, green frothy waves crashing into one another at impossible angles. The guides were careful about the crocs - which, yes, do bite, and in the few known crocodile hang-out spots, we weren't allowed in the water.
Every once in a while we'd pass fishermen paddling along in log canoes.

As we approached the last set of rapids (aptly named 'bad place') we were sad to be ending the day. It had been such a blast paddling around with friends and enjoying the outdoors. It was such a break from the chaos of Kampala. Before we entered the last set of rapids, our guide instructed us that if we fell out of the boat on this run, don't hold on to the boat; just let go or it could get hairy. As we entered the last set, the raft smacked into a torrent of white water, and in milliseconds, our bouncy castle was swamped. The river was actually swirling inside the raft, trying to yank us out. We clenched the safety rope along the edge with all our strength. Our hearts were pounding. Our grips were slipping. And then, poof! It was over, and we were floating through flat water again minus to of our friends who
had panicked and followed the guide's instructions not to hold onto the boat should we flip. They were calmly returned to the boat by rescue kayakers and we spent the rest of the evening rejoicing in our adventure, enjoying some beers while overlooking the river.

When we left on Sunday afternoon, one thing was for sure - we would be back. We had decided to join a kayak course on the Nile and hope that before long we will be bouncing through the rapids on our own and enjoying the beauty and power of the great Nile. Who could think of a better way to enjoy our weekends?

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